Kennedy Meadows South to South Lake Tahoe, June 12th to July 5th
Coming into the PCT, the Sierras were the section I was most excited about, and they did not disappoint.
Whereas the desert landscape could be quite varied, the days and landscapes in the Sierras became comfortingly and beautifully rhythmic.
Every day seemed to follow the same pattern: pass, lake, river. The beauty of the steep granite faces, snow-mottled peaks, alpine wildflowers, and marmots could be at times overwhelming and hard to process. I didn’t always swim in the frigid snow-fed alpine lakes, but I enjoyed the swims I had and just seeing the aqua blue, crystal clear water.
My favorite passes were Forester, Muir, Benson, and Sonora. Forester was our first pass, filled with snow and aqua blue lakes on the far side. Muir had the most snow and a gigantic lake halfway up with a conical hut at the top. Benson felt unlike other passes with lots of vegetation, trees, and more than one surprise lake. It felt more like a journey than an athletic endeavor up a steep climb. I hit our last pass, red Sonora Pass, at dusk with whipping wind and an incredible view of a river valley below. Passes were tough with climbing and avoiding postholing in snow, but I learned to enjoy the endorphin rush of steep and/or long climbs up or down.
Fording river crossings was a fun and sometimes wet or perilous puzzle to break up the monotony of hiking. Having constant water was a blessing after the water carries of the desert. I found peace easily in the forest devoid of highways and phone service.
I had wondered how I would find cold soaking my food in the cold mountains after ditching my cook stove at Kennedy Meadows South. I found I liked having my food ready to go. I had feared I would want hot food in the cold weather, but it never really got that cold for a Minnesota girl. I missed my stove on only a couple of occasions, certainly not enough to regret sending it home. Hiker hunger hit a peak in Bishop. I stuffed myself with more than I thought I could handle for dinner then squeezed in ice cream afterwards. Then somehow I was still hungry for tons of french toast in the morning.
I felt depleted heading into and out of Bishop but fine into and out of Mammoth Lakes. My Yosemite side quest with Hindsight and Skillet was a fun goodbye to the high Sierra and an ego boost blasting past the day hikers. But the subsequent sprint to catch the rest of the group left me gassed and burned out heading into South Lake Tahoe.
The tramily had grown from the core group of four (Raccoon, Walrus, Hindsight and I) to regain Extra and add Skillet and Lollygag. The end of the Sierras marks the end of our time with Walrus, who left to get some summer family time in. I’m grateful for all the laughs he gave me and for his lessons on generosity and “bringing the good weather.”
I certainly hope to revisit the Sierra Nevada for more beautiful adventures in the future!
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